On the third day of our stay in Sicily, Mario and Antonella invited us to a pizzeria. I personally really looked forward to this evening, because I was eager to see the authentic institution, where the Sicilians themselves go, and try the local cuisine. And she, by the way, is very different from everything that we tried in other regions of Italy.
In Sicily, seafood and garlic, which is present in almost all dishes, are especially honored, and pizza is no exception. So, our table was booked for eight in the evening - the very time when absolutely all the local population is having dinner, so almost no cars or even pedestrians came across our way.
Outside pizzeria Calvino, founded in the distant 1946, it looks very simple and especially does not invite visitors. But this is not necessary - from eight in the evening a line of those who have not booked a table in advance begins to accumulate here, which in itself already attracts random tourists.
The prices here are perhaps even high, when compared with our favorite Roman restaurant Carlo Menta, where a large pizza costs 5-6 euros. However, let the prices not scare you, you will never forget the taste of this pizza!
At the entrance to the pizzeria, there is something like a reception desk, behind which there is an affable Sicilian. Having learned that we came to Sicily at such an unusual time for tourists to specifically get acquainted with the culture of this island, and that we write about everything we see on our website, we were even allowed to go to the holy of holies - to the kitchen where pizza is prepared. Editor-in-chief of Italy for Me and a team of professional pizza makers.
Here you can learn in detail about the process of preparing the most delicious and common dishes on the planet. Over there in the corner, the finished dough is divided into equal pieces depending on the size of pizza you have chosen.
On large wooden tables strewn with flour, the rolled out dough is laid out and filled with the necessary ingredients.
Well, you can put everything in the oven.
With the help of a special shovel, the dough gently falls into a hot oven. Surely, this oven has been for many years and it was made according to a special project, so that pizza acquires its unique taste and aroma.
The temperature in a classic wood-burning oven reaches 400 degrees, and pizza is baked in just 2-3 minutes.
You can also cook sausages in it, and, probably, anything. That would be such a stove to put home!
After a detailed study of the kitchen, we finally headed to our table.
Mario and Antonella advised us to try the traditional pizza for this region, Rianata and Trapanese.
From the drinks, it was decided to take the local sparkling water Tomarchio, which tastes like a lemonade of childhood. Mario as a man took a beer, oddly enough Sicilians respect him too. Not like the Russians, who in his opinion drink beer around the clock, but he mastered a bottle in the evening. In addition to beer and soda, there is also water, Coca-Cola and wine. The choice is small but sufficient.
While we were waiting for our order, which, incidentally, did not last very long, we could take a closer look at the interior.
He is very, very modest here, I would even say ascetic. Not the coziest place we have ever been, but the atmosphere is amazing.
The walls are white, only pictures hung in the corridor. But here is such a picture on the tile pleases. In general, in Sicily they love ceramics. It is worth noting that, unlike many Roman restaurants, the tables here are quite far from each other, and conversations of strangers do not interfere with enjoying a delicious dinner.
And here is our dinner! Note that the pizza is already chopped, and it’s not at all the way we used to see it. In Sicily, it is cut into small square pieces and eaten with a fork. Very comfortably.
Real Sicilian pizza has a very rich taste. This is not some Margarita for you.
Pizza is served in a flat metal plate covered with special paper. Probably, this was done in order to wash less then dishes. Great advice to everyone who does not like this thankless task.
Pizza, although small (we took the average for each), but very satisfying. Therefore, it is quite enough for a hearty dinner.
Having finished with dinner, we accidentally looked into the next room, where Mario's friends were just sitting, also fond of running and marathons. It seems they have already eaten pizza and started the cake.
Then an extraordinary feature of all Sicilians was revealed to us - it doesn’t matter if you are familiar or not, they will certainly share with you. So, we had a piece of chocolate cake for dessert.
Despite the very ascetic interior, which in my opinion only gives this place even more atmosphere, here I tried my best pizza in life.
You must admit the fact that at the end of November, when there are practically no tourists in Trapani, the pizzeria from 8 in the evening is filled with indigenous people who know what deliciously says a lot.
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Without prior reservation you will have to taste it while standing, which is not so bad. It is difficult to imagine what kind of lineups there are in the season, but I will definitely return here more than once and check. I sincerely recommend to all our readers to visit.
Many thanks to our Sicilian friends. Mario and Antonelle for organizing our vacation on the island of Sicily in November.